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Jewelery
Rajasthan
became famous for its jewelry industry from very early times, being
an important source of precious and semiprecious stones. Sophisticated
jewelry, set with precious stones using the kundankari technique
or decorated with bright enamel work, known as minakari, were made
for these Rajput court and affluent people. Skillful artisans from
Lahore, Delhi, Gujarat and Bengal, attracted by the liberal patronage
of the Rajas, came to work in Jaipur, Bikaner, Udaipur and Jodhpur.
Throne Silver was used extensively in the court to make Cradles,
Carriages, Howrahs, Utensils, Door Panels and Thrones. The lion
motif, could only be used for the throne or other formal furniture
of the ruler. Various Techniques of Jewelry Making.
Enameling
- A
lithograph of 1884 showing a typical workshop of a monikar. While
three young assistant shape the ornaments and engrave the design
on it, the old master craftsman carefully fires it in the earthen
bhatti (kiln) fired with charcoal. The process is not much different
today.
Minakari
- Enameling
or Minakari, is not indigenous to Rajasthan. It was introduced
at the turn of the 16th century by Raja Man Singh of Amber. He
is said to have brought five skillful enamelers from Lahore where
the craft had flourished under the Mughals. They settled in Jaipur
and created fascinating types of jewelry and decorative pieces
with exquisite enameling work in brilliant colors, such as this
beautiful goblets and this necklace.
Kundankari Technique
- The Jaipur
lapidary displays superior skill in carving from hard stones such
as jade, rock crystal, agate, garnet, emerald, topaz, amethyst
and spinal. The Jadiyas(stonesetters) create fabulous pieces of
jewelry using the age-old kundankari technique. In this typically
Indian technique, the gemstones are set within solid walls of
gold. Types of Jewelry.
Tribal Jewelry
- The ornaments
of Barmer, Bhilwara and of the Meos of Alwar follow age-old designs
typical of a particular tribe. The design often mimic the shapes
of leaves, tendrils and flower buds, finished with a classical
simplicity.
Turban Jewels
- Following
the Mughal emperors, the Rajput rulers wore costly turban ornaments,
jigha, made of dazzling, enameled gold and set with rare rose-cut
diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and pearls turban jewels
like this one are still made by the jewelers of Jaipur. The sarpati,
made of enameled gold, is tied around the turban on formal occasions.
The reverse of this piece is beautiful enameled in white, red
and green.
Body Jewelry
- Women
wear jewelry on many parts of their body. Personal ornaments include
specific type worn on the Feet, head, forehead, ear, nose, neck,
chest, arm, wrist, fingers and waist. Nose rings are attached
to the earrings by fine gold chains and globular pendants are
worn on the foreheads.
Village
Goldsmith
- In every
small town or village, the resident sunar(Goldsmith) produces
traditionally designed ornaments to meet the needs of the tribes
living in the surrounding areas and those of the ordinary village
folk. He also works as the repair expert, money lender and pawnbroker
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